Irhad Suljić
Sarajevo
Written by Irhad Suljić, based in Sarajevo.
Sarajevo–Pale · Bosnia & Herzegovina
A self-guided cycling escape from Sarajevo's old town along the abandoned narrow-gauge "Ćiro" railway through the Miljacka canyon to Pale. Twelve Austro-Hungarian tunnels, no traffic, the city forgotten in fifteen minutes.

A quarter-hour from the concrete heart of Sarajevo, a different Bosnia begins. The Ćiro trail leaves the urban buzz behind and follows the abandoned tracks of the legendary narrow-gauge train that once connected the city to the east — through the dramatic Miljacka canyon, under twelve Austro-Hungarian tunnels, ending at the gentle highland town of Pale.
Out and back. Mostly gravel. Always quiet.
A self-guided half-day on the bike. You pick the pace and where to stop. We provide the route, the hour-by-hour timing, the tunnel briefings, the food stops in Sarajevo and Pale, and the small details — which tunnels are long and dark, where the canyon breeze hits hardest, where to look up — that turn the ride from "a trail" into a proper escape.
This is a moderate day — 35 km out-and-back, 340 m of gentle gain on the way out, fast descent on the way home. You need a mountain bike or gravel bike (the surface is good gravel, not road asphalt), front and rear lights for the unlit tunnels, and four to five hours including breaks. No technical riding skills required.